Installation Guide
Complete Wallpaper Installation Guide
It may be a good idea to hire a professional for larger or difficult projects, but with some patience and care (and ideally a helping hand!), you can also do it yourself following our complete installation guide.
1. Have enough wallpaper
When ordering wallpaper, you must consider both the square footage of the wall(s) you wish to cover, as well as your chosen pattern.
Measure how many square feet you need to cover and divide by the square footage of one roll (55 if you are using Cleo wallpaper), this will tell you roughly how many rolls you need. You want to have about 10 percent extra to account for pieces that will be trimmed during the installation process. If you have chosen a pattern with a larger vertical pattern repeat area, you will want to have even more wallpaper on hand as larger areas will need to be trimmed away in order to match the pattern from strip to strip.
You can find wallpaper calculator tools online to help with this part– look for one that includes pattern repetition, if applicable.
2. Collect Supplies
- Wallpaper paste - we find it’s most convenient to get a pre-mixed wallpaper adhesive in a resealable tub
- Paint roller and tray, and a brush, for applying paste to the wall
- Plumb line measuring tool or spirit level to ensure the first strip of wallpaper is applied on a perfect straight angle
- A large ruler or straightedge for planning out your placement
- Tape measure and a pencil to mark and measure the wall and your wallpaper strips
- Utility knife and a pair of scissors for cutting and trimming strips of wallpaper
- Wallpaper smoother or clean cloth to smooth the paper out once applied
- Damp sponge to wipe up any excess paste
3. Prepare the Walls
Prepare the walls by ensuring they are clean and dry. Fill and smooth any holes and remove any protrusions such as nails or hooks to ensure that you will have a smooth surface when finished.
4. Plan it Out
Use your level or plumb line tool, a long ruler, and a pencil to draw a perfectly vertical line on the wall from top to bottom where your strip of wallpaper will fit. Repeat this for the whole area you plan to wallpaper. If possible, plan for your first strip to be in an inconspicuous area and one that does not have any sockets or switches.
Unroll your wallpaper and, using your tape measure and pencil, mark where you need to cut on the back of the sheet. You’ll want to allow a couple extra inches at the top and bottom, after application you will trim these pieces away for a perfect fit.
5. Paste the Wall
Pour your wallpaper adhesive paste into a tray and use a roller brush to apply a generous even coat to the section you’ll start with, making sure to cover an area slightly wider than your wallpaper so that all edges will be secure when applied. Use a brush to apply paste to corners or tighter areas.
*Note: all Cleo Wallpapers are designed for an easy paste-the-wall application, but if you are using a different brand of wallpaper, check with the manufacturer about application methods.
6. Hang & Repeat
Hold your first strip at the top of the wall with a few inches of paper overhanging at the top. Align one of the edges with your pencil mark (have someone help you with this part if possible). Smooth the paper onto the wall with your hands starting at the top and work your way downwards. You should be able to shift the paper slightly on the wet wall if needed to ensure it’s properly aligned. It’s important to make sure your first strip is applied at a perfect right angle, as it will be a guide for the rest of the wall.
Run your wallpaper smoother or a clean cloth over the surface from the centre to the edges with light pressure. If there are any air bubbles gently push them to the edge if possible. Don’t press too hard here as you don’t want to squeeze out the adhesive.
Use a straightedge and a utility knife to cut a clean line across the bottom and top of the paper, trimming the excess against the ceiling and baseboard- be careful not to cut away too much.
Repeat this process of pasting and hanging, ensuring that all subsequent strips are applied precisely edge to edge, you don’t want the paper overlapping. Use your cloth to smooth down the seams.
Tricky Parts
Corners
You can follow different methods of of tackling corners, but for the best fit we recommend creating a seam at each corner. Do this by measuring and cutting the strip vertically so that it extends past the corner by just about half an inch. Apply the strip as usual, carefully matching the edge to your previous strip of wallpaper. Next, using a utility knife and ruler, trim down the bit that surpasses the corner so that it overhangs only about one eighth of an inch. With your next strip, overlap this overhanging bit so that the seam is flush with the corner (or as close as possible). The small width of the piece underneath should make the overlap raise almost undetectable.
Note: Many wall corners are not perfectly straight, so depending on the angle, you may want to allow a slightly wider buffer of overhanging wallpaper to ensure your next piece can be applied properly. Areas like this are the exception for where you may need to overlap your wallpaper slightly, as the angle of the wall can make it impossible for two pieces to sit parallel.
Matching the Pattern
Keep in mind when choosing a pattern that some are easier to apply than others. If the wallpaper has a longer vertical pattern repeat, you will generally require more in order to complete a project as you’ll have to trim larger areas in order to match it up. Vertical stripes or patterns that have a smaller vertical pattern repeat can be a slightly easier and sometimes more affordable option.
To match the pattern after applying your first strip, hold the roll up to the wall and adjust until you see where the pattern comes together. Measure your next strip carefully so that you are cutting out the right section of wallpaper with a few extra inches of leeway at both the top and bottom.
You should be able to gently slide the wallpaper on the wet pasted wall to get it exactly into place with the pattern matching up seam to seam.
Sockets and Switches
This part will be easier if you first remove the socket or switch plate covers. Most can be removed safely with a screwdriver. If possible, cut the power to the room while working on this part for safety.
Apply your wallpaper as usual over the area with the socket or switch, pressing down lightly over the protrusion. Find the central point over the socket and using scissors or a utility knife, carefully cut into the paper here, making a small X over the socket. Gently cut away the paper until it fits around the socket opening and then smooth the paper down along the edges of the hole using your cloth. Wipe away any excess glue and finish smoothing the entire sheet of wallpaper as usual.
Tips & Fixes
Bubbles
If you notice a bubble under the wallpaper that you’re not easily able to fix during the application/smoothing process, first allow the sheet to dry fully on the wall. If it’s still noticeable after drying, use a glue syringe to puncture the bubble and apply a small amount of adhesive under the surface and smooth it down.
Peeling Edges
This will be the result of not enough or not evenly applied adhesive. Carefully lift the peeling edge and using a small paintbrush or your finger, brush some adhesive along the back of the sheet. Smooth it down again using your cloth or smoother.
Clean as you go
Use a large natural sponge or a clean damp cloth to wipe away any excess glue as you go. This is much easier to do before the glue dries.
Hiding the last seam
If you are applying a patterned wallpaper around an entire room, the final seam is unlikely to match up perfectly. Plan ahead so that this spot will be in a low-visibility area like the corner above the entryway or behind a large piece of furniture. The most noticeable areas that you will want to pay special attention to matching properly are in the middle of the wall and the spaces between windows.
We hope you find this guide helpful. If you have any comments or feedback, please get in touch.